Restoring the teak on your boat is a maintenance task you’re probably not looking forward to but the wood trim can make or break the appearance of your watercraft.
It’s best to buckle down and do it right.
Step 1: Clean your teak
There are three types of products used for cleaning stains on teak. Always choose the appropriate solution to minimize damage to the wood.
- Light stains: Teak that is more “dirty” than stained can often be cleaned with a simple acid-free household cleaner. Mild cleaners cause almost no damage to the wood. Simply wet the wood, scrub across the grain with a very soft bristled brush, rinse and dry.
- Medium stains: Phosphoric or oxalic acid along with a light abrasive (for example, “Barkeeper’s Friend”) will remove most stains but can be hard on the soft portion of the grain. Be sure to wear gloves when using even the mildest acid.
- Heavy stains: For discolorations that won’t go away, you may need to purchase a two-part commercial teak cleaner. Follow the instructions on the box carefully. While caustics and harsh acids produce great results, these strong chemicals can damage gelcoat, paint and varnish. Take care to only apply to the wood.
Step 2: Prepare the teak for treatment
Choosing to sand your teak is a personal choice. Over time, as the soft part of the grain wears away, ridges will rise in your wood. Sand them away and you’ll restore the original smooth finish, but also decrease the life of the wood.
Take special care of sanding veneers as you can potentially wear through to the plywood. Solid teak is safer to sand, particularly handrails, toe rails, and dorade boxes.
Note that the decision to sand will be influenced by your dressing of choice. When planning on applying oil instead of varnish, sanding is less important.
Step 3: Apply the dressing
The three most common dressings are:
- Oil (usually linseed or tung): A time-honored tradition that intensifies wood patterns and restores the golden glow that makes teak such an attractive choice. Pros: Looks great. Cons: Needs to be refinished often and drips can stain paint or fiberglass.
- Sealer: Instead of allowing the wood to drink up oil, a sealer simply keeps moisture and dirt out. Pros: Longer lasting. Cons: Dries out the wood and colors aren’t as deep.
- Varnish: Learning to properly varnish teak can be tricky, but when done correctly this is the best strategy for truly protecting your wood. Pros: Stark gloss and varnish is available with UV protectant. Cons: Harder to apply and more difficult to touch-up as old varnish will eventually flake and crack.
Long-Term Maintenance Tips
- Salt water boats should be frequently rinsed with fresh water.
- Never scrub wood with salt water.
- Wash teak monthly with detergent and water before applying a coat of dressing.
- Reseal horizontal surfaces such as hatch covers more frequently.
- Pay extra attention to high-traffic areas such as the cockpit.
Leave a Reply